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The patterns of diffusion of these types of hats were different in France and the United States. In France, each social class used hats differently. In mid-century, the upper and middle classes wore top hats; in the last quarter of the century, they wore the top hat for formal occasions and the bowler for business and less formal occasions. By the end of the century, they were still wearing the top hat and the bowler, along with felt hats and, in summer, straw hats, straw boaters, and panamas (Delpierre 1990).
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In the different American sartorial worlds of city and countryside, wearing a hat was equally important (Brew 1945: 507). According to Severa (1995: 210), “A hatless man was an anomaly” in the 1860s; in the 1890s, the hat was described as being “almost always in place, even when the coat and necktie have been laid aside because of the heat.” Brew (1945: 508, 511) estimates that, in the 1880s, the average American bought a hat every year or two and, in the first decade of this century, probably owned two hats.